Encapsulated Vitamin C : interaction with topical delivery systems and skin

Adeline Delaporte (1) , Elsa Vrignaud (1) , Sana El-Mana (2) , Michel Grisel (1) , Ecaterina Gore (1)

1 URCOM - Unité de Recherche en Chimie Organique et Macromoléculaire
2 LOMC - Laboratoire Ondes et Milieux Complexes

Natural topical delivery systems (creams, emulsions, gels) often contain biologically active molecules such as antioxidants. Ascorbic acid is a water-soluble vitamin (Vitamin C) extensively used as an anti-age and antioxidant agent in cosmetic formulations. Besides its benefits: promoting collagen synthesis, reducing wrinkles, protecting the skin against free radicals, this vitamin is known as very unstable and easily decomposes into inactive compounds, limiting its use and efficacy on skin. Microencapsulation by spray-drying represents a promising strategy to improve ascorbic acid stability, protect against degradation and control the release of active molecules. This technique, easily transposable to an industrial scale, allows obtaining microparticles in a fast, reproducible and low-cost way without using toxic organic solvents. The present work introduces a cross-sectional study to explore 1) the interaction of ascorbic acid microparticles with different topical delivery systems (oil-in-water; water-in-oil emulsions and gelled oil) and their impact on macroscopic properties such as texture and 2) the interaction of these new delivery systems containing encapsulated Vit. C with the skin using biometrological tools.

Mots clés: Microencapsulation; Spray drying; Vitamin C; Topical application; Tribological properties; Textural properties; Biometrology; Polysaccharide; Cosmetic formulations

Domaines: Pharmacie galénique; Polymères

Adeline Delaporte, Elsa Vrignaud, Sana El-Mana, Michel Grisel, Ecaterina Gore. Encapsulated Vitamin C : interaction with topical delivery systems and skin. Skin Forum 2022, Jun 2022, Malmö, Sweden. ⟨hal-03727703⟩