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Spreading behavior of cosmetic emulsions: Impact of the oil phase

Abstract : Background Emollients are an important ingredient in personal care products, they are currently prescribed in skin disorders like eczema, which affects up to 30% of children in developed countries. Methods The aim of the study was to investigate the impact of two emollients (stearic acid and isohexadecane) and their mixtures in the spreadability and frictional effect on films obtained from oil-in-water emulsions. Rheological, textural, sensory and tribological analysis were performed on human skin and artificial substrates. Results The emollients ratio influences the spreading behavior of emulsions: more isohexadecane in the oil phase easier to spread the product on the skin. Moreover, significant correlations were obtained for the spreading behavior obtained by textural measurements on artificial substrates and sensory analysis (Pearson coefficient = −0.871). The results obtained by frictiometer showed different developments over time after product application: the friction values increase with the stearic acid concentration in emulsion. Discussion This study showed the importance to consider the emollient properties when one emollient is used in the emulsion, but especially their interactions, when several emollients are used, to better understand and anticipate their behavior. First, spreading was governed by the consistency of the emulsion, particularly impacted by the emollients ratio. But then, in a long-time spreading, when the emulsion broke down and residual film was formed, a particular interaction with skin influenced the spreadability. It appears that not only the physical state of the emollient but also its chemical nature, physical state, polarity, temperature might explain these phenomena.
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Contributor : Géraldine Savary <>
Submitted on : Friday, March 13, 2020 - 3:26:46 PM
Last modification on : Saturday, March 14, 2020 - 1:45:01 AM




Ecaterina Gore, Celine Picard, Géraldine Savary. Spreading behavior of cosmetic emulsions: Impact of the oil phase. Biotribology, Elsevier, 2018, 16, pp.17-24. ⟨10.1016/j.biotri.2018.09.003⟩. ⟨hal-02507807⟩



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